Edge-to-edge cooktop. A large cooking surface gives you extra room for pots and pans of all sizes and lets cookware move easily from burner to burner.Water Pump Replacement in a Chrysler 2. L Engine « Memory Leak. I recently helped my sister- in- law by replacing the leaking water pump in her 1. Dodge Intrepid with the 2. L engine. It’s a terribly designed engine in that when the water pump shaft seal goes (as they are prone to do), the leak dumps coolant into the crankcase and fouls the oil. ![]() I recently helped my sister-in-law by replacing the leaking water pump in her 1998 Dodge Intrepid with the 2.7L engine. It’s a terribly designed engine in that when. KitchenAid, Whirlpool, Sears Kenmore, Maytag dishwasher fires. Product recall. Class action lawsuit. Product buy back. Recover damages. Chrysler seams to think that a simple weep hole is sufficient to catch any leakage and dump it outside, but, I’ve read too many stories about that being inadequate. BTW — the weep hole location is on the left side of the engine block, near the front, about half way up the block. It’s easiest to locate when looking from underneath the car. The following is not meant to be a complete step- by- step on how to do the job. I intend it to be informational with things that I learned along the way that might help others. I would not attempt this without some kind of service manual(s). I have omitted many important details that are covered in a service manual (like torque procedures). If nothing else, after reading this you should get a good sense for the amount of work involved and why a mechanic is going to charge you north of $5. Tools that you absolutely must have that might not be in the average tool box: 1. DO NOT use a socket ratchet! Set of Torx bits (for the coil- over- plug removal)Torque wrench (duh!)Recommend, but, I managed without them: Chain style locking “pliers” to hold crankshaft pulley when removing/installing crankshaft pulley bolt. Crankshaft pulley installer. Enough lead in, let’s get started with the tear down: Remove the intake Plenum — Disconnect all wires and hoses to the plenum, including the EGR tube. Disconnect the throttle cable(s). Unbolt and remove the plenum with the throttle body attached. Stuff rags into the intake ports to prevent anything from getting dropped in. Use a couple of zip ties to hold the wire bundles over the center of the engine. Remove the valve covers — Remove the coil- over- plug assemblies. I used a sharpened putty knife to carefully slip between the head and the cover to loosen it enough to pop it free without damaging the cover gasket. The cover gaskets are rubberized and reusable if care is taken. Remove the cross- member above the radiator. Drain the cooling system and remove the upper radiator hose. Remove the fan assembly. Remove the drive belts. Remove the power steering pump — There’s no need to disconnect any hoses or drain the system. It simply has to be pulled aside. Take note that there are only 3 bolts holding the pump in place and ALL of them are accessible with a socket wrench through the holes in the pump pulley. If you are struggling to get at one of the bolts, most likely the bolt is holding only the bracket and not the pump. The farthest inside bolt has a spacer that is pressed through the bracket and against the pump. This spacer needs to be pried away from the pump in order to free the pump enough to remove it from the bracket. Now that the pump is out of the way, all the power steering pump idler bracket bolts are a cinch to get at. Remove the bracket. Remove the bolt in the crankshaft holding the main pulley in place. If you don’t have a proper tool to hold the pulley, you can manage by using the tab at the bottom of the timing chain cover as a prop for a screwdriver through the pulley spoke. Remove the crankshaft pulley using a 3- jaw puller. Remove the timing chain cover. Remove the spark plugs to ease rotating the crankshaft. Rotate the crankshaft around until “colored” links of the timing chain are oriented with the respective sprockets as shown in the photo’s below. Additionally, align the crankshaft position with the arrow on the crank case (it’s actually the oil pump housing) on the left side of the engine. I found the “dark colored” links to be very difficult to see. Also note that if the timing marks do not line up, keep spinning the engine around and eventually, they will. Or, the lazy way is to simply count that each sprocket is offset by the same number of teeth and the same direction to confirm that you’ve properly identified the alignment links. Note that the crank position does not look correct in this picture — partly due to the camera angle, and partly because it really is off by a little bit…With everything in alignment, remove the timing chain tensioner. Take note of the extension of the timing chain tensioner before removing it. This will be useful for gauging the wear of the cam chain later. Remove all the timing chain guides. Note that this requires removing the large plugs in the front of the heads using a 1. I did not have one and my local hardware store was conveniently out of stock when I needed it, so, I made one from a long coupling nut as shown on the right. The coupling nut was 1/2″ wrench size with a little work on the grinder reduce it down to make it ~1. MM. No sir, I’m not too proud to admit any of this! Remove the cam shaft sprockets. Be warned: I had a problem with the cams not staying in the exact location once freed of the chain. Use caution when removing the bolts since the cams may spring violently once the sprocket bolts are removed (ask me why I know about this)! Use a 3/8″ ‘breaker bar’ that has a non- ratchet head so you can ease the spring pressure in either direction after removing the cam sprocket bolts. Do NOT hold the cam shaft with a standard 3/8″ ratchet since it can only apply torque in one direction! Remove the cam chain enough to clear the water pump. Finally, the water pump can be removed. Once I got it free, I found that the gasket was disintegrating. The rubber material was literally crumbling into pieces upon removal. Arielle was very lucky that the gasket had not started leaking coolant into the crankcase. I urge you to drain the oil at this point since, undoubtedly, coolant dribbled down into the oil pan upon removing the water pump. Inspection. Take a close look at the wear on the cam chain guides. Arielle’s engine had been replaced and we don’t know how many miles it has on it. The deepest wear on the worst cam chain guide was only ~0. We decided not to replace the guides. Next came the cam chain itself. The tensioner was roughly 3/4″ extended with tension on the chain. The tensioner extends ~1. Since it had over half of the travel remaining, we decided to keep the old cam chain in service as well. Installation. Even after reading the procedure in the manual, one of the most confusing things to do was to “reset” the cam chain tensioner before installing it. There’s a special tool that might help you with this, but it is not really required. The trick is to release the check valve ball while compressing the tensioner so that the trapped oil can escape. I used a tiny allen wrench to apply a small amount of pressure on the ball while firmly applying compression to the tensioner body. It’s moderately tricky and you are not done until the tensioner wants to spring back on its own after being released from compression (see Updates). If it does not do this, the problem is most assuredly because it has yet to be compressed enough to fully drain the oil out. This is confusing because once all the oil is removed, it will actually “click” into a fully compressed state and not spring back. However after applying compression again, it should then spring back into the extended position. I’d be wary of using a vise for compression due to the difficult in gauging the force applied (it can easily be done by hand). It’s also very messy and the oils squirts all over — wear eye protection! UPDATE: after completely draining the oil from the tensioner (as called for in the service manual I was using), I think this later caused a problem — the timing chain would lose tension at idle when the oil was up to temp. So, I likely screwed something up (also, there was a commenter below that seams to have the same problem). My theory is that releasing the tensioner after installation fills it with air, and that air gets trapped, ruining the hydraulic lock that is probably needed at lower oil pressures during idle. Commenter Dennis did the job and suggested only compressing the tensioner just enough to reinstall it, thus, leaving nearly all the oil in the tensioner. He reports this has worked great thus far. Thank you, Dennis, for reporting back on this. More UPDATES: Commenter Ralph describes the following details about the tensioner: Upon examining the tensioner closely I found that it has a tiny bleed hole in the piston, opposite end of where the ball valve is. Top 1,5. 99 Reviews and Complaints about GE Refrigerators. We had a set of GE Profile appliances for 1. We were very happy with our old set and decided to stay with GE again. So we bought a new set of 4 in Feb. Initially all 4 appliances we received were defective in one way or another. But the microwave, range and dishwasher have all been replaced and are performing to our satisfaction. Unfortunately, we are on our 3rd fridge (model # PFE2. KSKSS) and still having problems. The first one had loud fans, would bang 2. The second one still banged away, had loud fans, and the side panel was starting to come off. This 3rd one initially banged away 2. The banging sound varies between a couple different levels of loudness. And sometimes it can occur up to 3 times in a row at different intensities. It is not water "banging" because we can hear the water being taken in by the fridge when it needs it. And because no other faucet in the house has the problem. And because we never had the problem in the 1. Also, every now and then it will loudly buzz for up to a couple of hours. In addition, the fans sometimes sound like they go into overdrive and are so loud that we have to turn the tv way up in the kitchen so we can hear the program we're watching. What a disappointing nightmare. GE has sent a tech out 5 times so far. We have been told that this is a new model. On 4 of the 5 times there were software updates that needed to be downloaded. One time the tech said the updates had to completely rewrite 3 of the 5 circuit boards inside. And of course when the techs are out here for 2. Even though just the normal sounds of the fans are louder than any fridge I've ever heard in life, the techs tell us that this is normal for this new model. Luckily, after all the software updates, we usually only hear it bang maybe 2 or 3 times a day. At least that's much better than it was. The last tech that was out here told me he thought it might be an ice maker issue. He suggested that I turn off the ice maker overnight and see if the banging goes away. He told me that if it quits banging while it is off, we've probably found the problem. I've done that 3 times now and each time the fridge didn't bang while it was off. He said I should report my findings to the Customer Relations lady (Misty) I've been dealing with for months regarding this issue. I reported my findings to Misty and told her I may have found the issue. She had total disregard for the test and findings. She then told me that because their techs didn't hear the noise when they were here, GE has concluded that any noise I hear is considered normal. I reminded her that the noise may sometimes not happen for 6 to 8 hours and it's little surprise that someone can stand here for 2. NOW GET THIS, she actually told me I should find a way to record the fridge and send them the audio. I told her I'd be happy to let them set the equipment up in my house and record. Obviously, because there is no consistent pattern, it would be best for them to probably record for 2 or 3 days. She told me I should just do it on a smart phone. I told her that was ridiculous. First of all, I don't have one. Second, even if I did, why would I dedicate my personal phone and data plan for all that time? Isn't that what GE has an R& D department and engineers for? Her next solution was that she could send a tech back again, but if it didn't bang or buzz while he was here they would charge me for the service call. At this point I thanked her for her time and told her that it was obvious she could not offer any more reasonable help. I told her I would escalate the issue further up the food chain. She then said I could talk to her supervisor, but her supervisor had no more power to help than she did. So that seemed like a pretty worthless offer and just more time wasted. I told her we were escalating much higher. Her final solution was to tell me that she was just going to close out my case. So at this point we are very disappointed with GE. Considering the fact that software updates have been needed so often on a brand new item, it would seem to make sense that they have acknowledged problems with the initial programming that needed fixing. Unfortunately, although these updates have helped some, they have not completely solved the issues we're having. And there is no way to know when there may be more updates because the consumer has no way to check for them or download them.
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